Dharamsala - With Yoga and cafe's at every corner

The flight from Heathrow to Delhi was pleasant. If anyone ever gets the option to fly in KingFisher Airlines, go for it . You get plenty of leg room,tasty meals with actual silverware, a neat dinner napkin(cloth, otherwise all airlines go paper these days), thick blankets that cover you head to toe and cute mini pillows. The service staffs are excellent as well.

I had a connecting flight to Dharamsala from Delhi which was 4 hours after my arrival. Cleared customs and had to go out the airport and enter again for domestic. Went through their TSA and didn't beeped but still got petted down by a female officer. Mostly slept on the 1 1/2 flight but was able to catch excellent views of the Himalayas. The pilot pointed a 22,000 feet high peak that was hiding behind clouds.

Dharamasala is not the actual residence of the Dalai Lama. He resides closer to the town of McLeod Ganj known as Tsuglagkhang .McLeod Ganj is a 45 min bus ride up windy narrow hills and the Tsuglagkhang residence is about a 15 min walk from here. There's plenty of tourist here with a hostel every 10 feet. Monks walk around the tiny alleys , with cars honking through out the day trying to give warning to pedestrians to get off the tiny 7 feet wide lane.

I am staying in a room with a view to one snow covered peak in the distance and a small valley.I have to put the curtains down if I have to change clothes unless I want the Monks across the building below to see me naked. I have sit down toilets and hot water, do have to use a bucket and bowl but I am used to it from my days in Fiji.

To visit the two temples which were 3 1/2 hours away, I woke up at 3.30am to catch the 4 am bus. Was a little nervous walking the alley so early in the morning, but was comforted to see 2 policemans patrolling the main square. Was helped by local man to get bus and directions to the temples which was greatly appreciated.

The town of Jawalmuki is small yet bustling with people. The street leading to the temple is filled with stores selling Puja (prayer ) items and prasads(sweet offerings). I purchased one and was given a brief run down on the ceremony, allowed to leave my shoes and walk up the rest of the way. There's trash, spit, pee and beggars all the way up. It was only about 7 something and there were hundreds here already to pay pilgrimage. Had to move my backpack in the front to avoid pickpocketers. The Jawalamukhi temple(the goddess of light) is where Shiva's first wife Sati's tongue has said to have landed after her body was consumed by flames and split into 51 pieces. The site is worshiped in the form of a natural-gas eternal flame issuing from the rocks.No pictures were allowed inside.

I got a view of Kangra Fort on the way back that was used by Hindu rajas.It still stands high and strong even after getting destroyed by a earthquake.Got dropped off at the bus stop close to the temple. The Brajeshwari Devi temple is where Sati's left breast has said to have landed. Again a huge amount of devotees were walking up the small ally lined up with stalls and beggars. Paid my respects to the goddess and asked for a safe journey while I traveled this magnificent country. Wandered around the grounds and was offered prasad by a priest which was really appreciated since it was 12 and I had yet to eat anything. Went to the market and bought a duppata(scarf) for my journey to Amritsar(it is wise to keep the head covered while paying pilgrimage in the this holy city which is home of the Golden Temple). Couldn't find a decent street stall to eat since I was wary of getting Diarrhea form the water. I had come across plenty of places where they used the alley water to wash dishes and using that same water to clean chickens and vegetables. Caught a bus back to McLeod Ganj by 1 pm.

Had Momo (Tibiten vege dumplings) for lunch and used the net at Green Hotel.Went down the alleys to shop for long shirts and snacks a little later and fill up my water bottles for 10 rupees(there's over pollution of plastic in McLeod Ganj and the Green Hotel charges 10 rupees to fill up 1 liter of mineral water. It seemed safe since every other tourist was doing the same). Was in the middle of writing my blog when I started falling asleep. It was still light outside so it wasn't late,dinner was long forgotten and I ended up sleeping with my wallet, watch and bra on. Woke up around 5.30am with Monks brushing their teeth and drying there clothes inthe building next to me. The sun was up, today I was spending my time at Dalai Lama residence. Should get up now and get ready.